TRAINS AGAIN
By: Iris P. Concepcion
"Airplanes get you to places faster; trains educate you about their secrets with celluloid touches."--Iris P. Concepcion
You could not miss the sight: the towering building that never bows to the minions of people throbbing on their heartbeats, slippers' glints and muck combined,the hurried looks of immediate farewells.
This is Thailand's pre-fab luminescence of its train stations. They are not modern. They reek of the Old World with deeply-creased people waiting for their future. It is India and Vietnam combined, the lurking mysteries of the past crawling, in transit, implying the lost transitions of what could have been.
They invite reverence more than awe.
I hop into an ordinary coach, paying 23 baht for that rare, railway experience.
It alters my sense of belonging. I sit in front of a father carrying his two kids. The little girl has a mole on his cheek with rabbit teeth. She is curly like I was at one and a half days old. She is abnormally adorable in an un-tyke manner of cuteness. She looks like an expensive wat (temple). Rare are the moments when you aspire to paint the oval fields residing on little people's cheeks. Hers can hue some gobbled football, complete with a stadium.
The boy readily eats the biscuit I offered him. I have amnesially forgotten that it is Father's Day. I could have expressed better my respect for the man who has fed milk to his daughter's plump mouth, currently sleeping as a if bored with this writer's attempt at being cordially engaging. The chugs-chugs-chugs of train wheels march on with Plathian recall of boot steps. I peek on a guy who looks like Kojak in Hindu gear, planting himself on a direct visual angle with mine. He sits beside a more silent, smaller version of himself. Their eyes are pools of encyclopedic promises with hidden treasures of long forgotten histories and maps.
Their wordspeak: The world is square and we are wiser than you.
Across the aisle, a woman is garbed in a white, queenly clothing as she surreally surveys the vastness of the green horizon. Each station evokes an eclectic surprise. She eats with her bare hands. I see how she feeds herself gracefully in calculated moves. Each mouthful is in exact proportion: rice and viand in a Newton division.
How vast the land outside the window/How derelict people are when compared. Lines cargoed from my mind.
I talk to the father since he is nearer. He speaks understandable English and can name me the names of trees and flowers suddenly floating on isolated ponds. Small talks as streams of rubber trees never seem to cease growing outside the opened window. It is to define the rustic emblems of Thailand's outskirts that tend to enflame memories of my own province.
It is newer only because of my fellow passenger, Kojak. As I speak, he is a relic. He disembarks on a station, Chang-na, a bustling area of markets and playgrounds (they use blue-painted, used drums as playground addages, very smart), and rediscovers him as a 3011 being.
Lugging on a bag with the alternatively prepositioned word that defy Vogue embossed in it: "Freedom For Expression." I can foresee the coming generation reinventing communication as a tool of renowned, creative engagement.
I continue talking to the father of the two kids as I look back, surveying the fellow who looks like a Japanese. I am taking the whole globe with me, in this coach, at this precise moment, in this revolving planet.
A young, lanky woman asks me, while I am talking to the father, if she can take her seat beside me. I reply in the affirmative while giving an impish smile. [I am reviewing the immediately preceding words and silently softballed a guffaw. This dialogue is like Henry Green's.]
I switched on, like a benighted light, the recipient of my conversation and now aims my words at her instead of the father.
She is going to Haad Yai, a city two hours from Yala, just like myself and the man with two kids.
I probe further if she is employed.
"I am a scientist," she casually declares.
I am tightlip, absorbing the ferocity of the sworn words. It is clawing, aberrant and a genius reply.
I learn that she uses microscopes to study blood and other anatomical components.
"You are a medical technologist," I moronically try to correct her. I say to her, scientists fly to skies.
I sound dumb, idiotic and clueless.
She points at my skin, my neck, my arms using words like "get". I supply her words with a Harvardian medical vocabulary.
"Stem cell," I gush.
We both laugh and are in an agreement that the baby who is still sleeping is ridiculously adorable.
It is a continuous barren of fields outside. Scorching as it is, I am obliged to give gamma ray a wink as I enlist nothingness from where I may embark as a point of destination.
Contrary to the harbinger of a smelly doom, I am actually entering a mini city of paradise.
The zoning plan of Haad Yai is with the precis of a traveller's mind in sketch. Its train station is not as high as Yala but the welcoming roads are easier to navigate. Straight lined-roads with visible intersections.
This is place of hotels and shopping malls. You immediately smell the aroma of a KFC outlet, an adjunct of its own version of Robinson Mall. Walking forward, one gets inside a massive shopping building in pastel pink named Odean. A white couple is gorging on fresh bananas outside while a giant screen playing house music lingers in audio form. Paul Van Dyke. The tribe of modern James Joyces, reeling in the hours of inner melodies and expurging their minds from societal constraints. Free coffee is given inside.
I need to discharge my urinary bladder and asks around for a comfort room. I was not understood. I ask a Dennis Hoffer look-alike guy, he of the Sundance Kid variety of clearcut acting, where the comfort room is. He tells me that they use the term "toilet" in this area. He shows me the way to a "pub." His description of it is baffling. He says: "You can use its bathroom. It is very good." A hefty person trapped in a funny, curious line. I guess he talks like a staid man rating places in a travel guide-like manner.
My verdict: two stars in a scale of five.
I change my strides and turn to where the golden M arch adorns a beautifully erected building that defies architectural logic. Ronald McDonald is sculpted with a customary, Thai greeting. Minimalist in spirit, I have seen an outlet in Manila following this new cult of space usage. Lee Garden Hotel is where it is housed. One could not ostensibly miss it. A huge billboard of Thailand's King and Queen signal its entry.
The Regency Hotel is just fifteen steps away from this area. This mix of exciting hodgepodge is a delight to any tourist or any universal explorer. Everything is packed in one street without me hailing vehicles, carts and cows for transportation to go anywhere. Everything is a virtual walk-in-the-park.
This is the One. Across it are the beautiful buses going to Singapore and Phuket.
A shopping establishment called Central fronts the Lee place. Beside it are strips of seafood fare that are cooked luxuriously: shrimps and crabs. It is a lively picture of Chinatown and the different faces of delighted Orientals. I have seen that their food servings are ample. You can eat the emperor's food even if you only have 100 baht to save your palate dream. They are bundled like lost crustaceans from the Baltic Ocean. I have had my feast of Chinese and Muslim food in Yala that are superior and is now salivating for massive, space-like burgers as that ominous M sign beckons like a tummy traffic light.
I order a Big Mac (cheaper here than the Philippine prices). A meal with french fries and Coke is called set. A Big Mac set. Mindful of Thai culture, its catsup dispensers have three choices. One for chili, the others for Thai and American catsup.
My burger tastes like I have conquered Wimbledon. Heaven. I did not consume my upsized fries. Its burger container is environmental-friendly with the words: "Each story has two sides."
I could not believe one can shrink the multitudes of cultures in taste, sight and sound in one street. I long for minimalism and I envision streets exactly looking like this city does it. Streets are of my height scale. Compact but with fulfillling sceneries. I squire a tee-shirt with a guy wearing an I-Pod sitting in a loo. It trumpets: "I poohd." It sells for 250 baht.
The city synthesis, I mentally dissect in just three hours. I bought lunch boxes and pastries with creamy barquillos (20 baht, at the foot of the train).
I have to catch my train back to Yala.
I re-enter the train station and befriend the guys at the Information talking on the microphone. They talk like disc jockeys. I see a white guy in expertly polished shoes like an Arundhati character waiting to return to Neptune. He sits there like a forlorn teenager but with an impeccably-tailored suit. His shod are like jewels. Its color is like the samarudin Muslim food in Yala. Dark, olive green. But a notch deeper in hue.
A mouthy football-clad Caucasian is complaining about his train ride. He wants to be home and is loudly manifesting his concerns via buffoonery why his ride never came. He is from the United Kingdom, as I can glean from his accent. I see him ten minutes back bringing an electric fan. Why he is hauling off an appliance in an old railway area, I certainly give back to Vishnu the answer.
I often wonder why I get little bits of the odd and sublime, the foolish and the intellectual, the gold and the ore in this thread of re-awakening travels.
I ditch the brochure guides and Internet directions and find these people in patchwork characters waiting to get printed, read and reviewed. They are books onto themselves.
I have found my characters; they, too, shall experience how to be lettered in ink. In paragraphs, with a title and staggering adjectives.
I return to Yala with the father bringing only her daughter this time. He left the boy with his mother-in-law. I play with the kid and teach her the words "window" and "ceiling fan".
I bid goodbye to the pair and promise to meet the happy child again. This is a happy comeuppance oasis. Surely, a curly-haired, healthy tot can find her way to me.
To the clued, my seven-hour discovery is already an O. Henry material. I shall baptize these characters according to the Gospel Of Fiction.
Trust me, I aspire to become a traveller.